Regardless, is there any way to address this through firmware compensations? Has anyone dealt with this or tried to fix it? I believe that the printer itself has been built properly since I am able to confirm perpendicularity of the bed to the towers. It either skews to make smaller or to make bigger towards the outer edges of the print bed. So the biggest problem I am having is not the absolute size of the part but the fact that it doesn't print squarely. The mesh remains the same even though the comps are saved. I tried fixing the mesh using endstop corrections but they don't seem to react at all when using UBL. I took measurements and they were all off substantially. I thought this was success but then I printed a calibration piece where I have 150mmx4mm rectangles printed from the tower towards the center of the print bed. Knowing this, I decided to compensate using the steps/mm for each tower until the bed looked level in the UBL mesh. The print head is compensating 2mm more near the Z tower area versus the rest and there looks to be a lean to the print bed when there physically isn't.Ģ. Keeping the print bed at 90 degrees to all the towers does not cause the mesh in UBL to be remotely uniform. Here are the 2 things I have been fighting:ġ. I have made sure that the print bed is at 90 degrees versus all the towers and it is. I made sure to build this thing very carefully and using a metal 90degree aluminum angle piece to check if everything is being assembled together squarely. I test printed and now my difference is about. I decided to re-frame the whole printer with stronger and stiffer 2040 aluminum towers instead of the 2020 and use metal corners and doubled up on the corner joiners. UBL does a great job at allowing you to print the first layer but it did not make the parts more square. This is a huge problem for me and so I updated to Marlin 1.1.9 with unified bed leveling in the hopes that I can adjust this difference (steps per mm of each arm) and then the mesh table could just lower or raise the print head regardless of the unoffset tool head path. 060" difference between both ends of the part. I'm not concerned about the scaling, it's more about the. However, when I try to print something that requires dimensional accuracy, and let's say I print a rectangle that is supposed to be 5.310" by 8.070", then I would get 5.334" on one end by 5.394" on the other. I am very familiar with Marlin 1.1.8 and 1.1.9.įor the purposes of printing trinkets, the K280 with its auto bed leveling feature is great. I have experience with Rostock MAX V2 and now also the HE3D K280 (yea it was a very cheap option and hard to pass up). I am a mechanical engineer and I have been 3d printing since 2013 I believe. but these are some of the biggest impact areas.Hello, before I go into the problem, allow me to give some background so that we avoid the noob talk. There are a lot of other factors that can influence adhesion. but these are some of the biggest impact areas. Note: It takes a while to develop the correct raft parameters to give you good part separation when finished, and a good surface finish that minimizes post-print cleanup and processing. The raft gives you a thin, and stable print surface that spreads the adhesion over a large surface area, and your prints then stick to this raft. and with almost every print I will print a raft that is typically 3-6mm bigger than the contact area of the part I am trying to print. The last big contributor is the contact area. This stress and warping can cause the parts to lift off the base. if the filament is printed at a very high temp, and the base is cold, then you get a lot of stress and warping during the print, especially as the thickness and fill density of the parts to up. Make sure the print base is clean, without contamination (oil from your fingers, etc.). It starts with cleanliness, and then goes to process parameters, and then to contact area. BEST ANSWER: There are a number of factors that influence adhesion to the base.
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